The real soul of Sichuan cuisine — Doubanjiang with a homemade recipe you can try when the board beans are harvested.
What’s Doubanjiang
Doubanjiang, also known as Sichuan sauce or Board bean chili paste, is a traditional Chinese condiment made from fermented broad beans. It is considered the soul of Sichuan cuisine. It has a pungent, salty flavor and is often used in stir-frying dishes and stewed dishes.
Doubanjiang (豆瓣酱) literally means bean paste. There are several versions popular in different areas in China. Sichuan Doubanjiang is made from broad bean (fava beans) instead of soybean. There are two sub-versions—one is red oil doubanjiang, which is relatively easy to make and quite popular in housewives’ kitchen; the other one is famous Pixian doubanjiang produced in a small area named as Pixian of Sichuan province. Due to the excellent water sauces, great weather condition and ancestral recipe, Pixian Doubanjiang has its unique flavor and enjoys a high reputation all over world. Pixian doubanjiang usually goes through quite long fermentation time under sunshine. The prices vary based on the fermentation years. But the main market for Pixian doubanjiang is outside Sichuan province. It is quite sad that the tradition is losing due to the city development. Instead of using traditional fermentation method, modernized production lines are widely adopted to improve the outputs. However, we are lucky as there are still some brands (Pi’xian Doubanjiang on Amazon: Sichuan Pixian Broad Bean Paste with Red Chili Oil – 17.6 oz (500g) to trust. If you meet premiere three-year doubanjiang, do not miss it at whatever price.
Common housewives in Sichuan province love to make their own Doubanjiang at home. The homemade Doubanjiang is produced by a simpler process but yield great tastes too. My family has the tradition to make Doubanjiang each year, making several large jars in turn and exchange with family members. We usually call homemade doubanjiang red oil doubanjiang, because usually a layer of oil is used to separate the doubanjiang from air.
Caution: the following is an extremely long post, as I am trying my best to explain everything in detail. Making a jar of doubanjing is comforting and enjoyable, but also time-consuming and expensive. If you plan to try it at home, please know the most important fungus during the process: Aspergillus oryzae, how it works, and the best conditions.
I thought homemade doubanjiang can be quite easy after watching my mother and grandma making them a year and year again. But it is true only if you are in China because we are making our homemade doubanjiang based on an essential ingredient—fermented broad beans(霉豆瓣). There is almost no chance to find fermented broad beans outside China, even outside Sichuan. So I went back to my hometown this year and make my own batch from just dried fava beans under their directions. I only start with a small batch and yield around 1.5 kg doubanjiang at last(in the little earth jar shown in the above picture).
My mom did not make fermented broad beans previously but my grandma did. I have double-checked with her and tried several batches using natural fermentation in my apartment. Guess what? All of the tests failed. After reading lots of articles and papers, I found out the reason is the environment-my apartment. Fungus widely exists in my grandma’s yard as she makes fermented foods each year, but my apartment is too clean so there are very few starters around. So I further find out a shortcut and saver way–using the kit for the fermentation. Koji kit is the sprouts of Aspergillus oryzae. After being loaded with the sprouts, broad beans can be fermented in a short time and meanwhile reduce the chance to be infected by other harmful fungi.
Firstly soak the beans overnight with enough water and then drain.Transfer the beans to a steamer and steam for 20-45 minutes based on the hight of the layer until just well cooked (when you break them in halves in hand, there is no raw part inside, but the beans should not be too fragile to smash easily). You can taste the beans. They should be slightly stiff but well cooked already.
After steaming, transfer the beans out immediately and spread to cool down. In summer, make sure they are cooled down completely. Then mix the starter with 3g flour. The powder in the small spoon is the starter I use, known as koji kit (koji mold spores). You can purchase a Japanese version from amazon.
Spread the starter to the beans and massage with hands to make sure all the beans are loaded with starter.
Then flat them and cover with a wet clean cloth (I soak the cloth in cooled boiled water and please keep the cloth away from the beans). Place on a baking cooling rack so there is air going through underneath and place in shadow place (try to avoid sunshine). Keep the temperature between 30 to 36 degree C and the air humidity around 80% (at least 70%).
If weather condition is great, it should look this after several hours.
Then after another 12 to 16 hours, it looks like this.
Lovely? I watch them for minutes.
After another 12 hours to 16 hours, the white hair turns yellow.
When the hair turns yellow, stop the fermentation via drying under sunshine.
After one day drying under sunshine, it looks like. That’s the fermented broad beans(霉豆瓣).
Wash the beans under running water gently and drain. Then add 30ml Chinese white spirit (白酒), 250ml cooled boiled water and 50g salt.Mix well and fermented for 30 hours to 40 hours (covered).
Then you will get this.
Wash the pepper and air dry for 5-10 hours. And then cut into small pieces. Add around 40g salt and set aside for 1 hour before mixing with the beans.
Scoop the red peppers to the beans and discard the extra liquid at the bottom. Mix in spices, 50ml oil and 2 tablespoons of fermented sticky rice (you can skip this if hard to acquire). And transfer the mixture into the pot.
This is optional! In the first 7 days, place in warm place (under sunshine ) and uncover by day and half covered by night.
Add oil to cover the doubanjiang (3-4 cm higher), cover the lid and place in warm place. Then we pass everything to time. Let it ferments for at least 3 months before enjoying. Use cleaned tool to scoop the sauce out and it can be kept for 2-3 years.
After three months. Homemade red oil doubanjiang has a lighter and brighter color comparing with Pixian doubanjiang.
Doubanjiang | Broad Bean Paste
Ingredients
- 150 g dried board beans , peeled
- 0.3 g kit starter
- 800 g to 1000g fresh pepper
- 3 tbsp. minced ginger , optional
- 30 ml white spirit , or other hard liquor
- 250 ml cooled boiled water
- 50 g for beans +40g (for fresh peppers) salt
- 2 tbsp. fermented sticky rice
- oil as needed
- a Jar
Spices (you can replace them with 1 tbsp. Chinese five spice powder)
- 2 star anises
- 3-4 bay leaves
- 1 tablespoon red Sichuan peppercorn
- 1 small piece of Chinese cinnamon
- 1/4 teaspoon cloves
- 1/4 teaspoon fennel seeds
- 1 tsao ko
- 2 cardamons
Instructions
Make fermented fava beans
- Firstly soak the beans overnight with enough water and then drain.Then transfer the beans to a steamer and steam the board beans for 20-45 minutes based on the hight of the layer until just well cooked (when you break it in halves in hand, there is no raw part inside, but the beans should not be too fragile to smash easily). You can taste the beans. They should be slightly stiff but well cooked already.
- After steaming, transfer the beans out immediately and spread to cool down. In summer, make sure they are cooled down completely. Then mix the starter with 3g flour.
- Spread the starter to the beans and message with hands to make sure all the beans are loaded with starter.
- Spread the starter to the beans and message with hand to make sure all the beans are loaded with starter.Then flat them and cover with a wet clean cloth (I soak the cloth in cooled boiled water and please keep the cloth away from the beans). Place on a baking cooling rack so there is air going through underneath and place in shadow place (try to avoid sunshine). Keep the temperature between 30 to 36 degree C and the air humidity around 80% (at least 70%). Wait for 24 to 48 hours until the white hair turns yellow.Stop the fermentation via drying under sunshine.
Make Doubanjiang mixture
- Wash the beans under running water gently and drain. Then add 30ml white spirit, 250ml cooled boiled water and 50g salt.Mix well and fermented for 30 hours to 40 hours (covered).
- Wash the pepper and air dry for 5-10 hours. And then cut into small pieces (I chop ginger along with peppers). Add around 40g salt and set aside for 1 hour before mixing with the beans.
- Scoop the red peppers to the beans and discard the liquid on bottom. Mix in spices, 50ml oil and 2 tablespoons of fermented sticky rice. And transfer the mixture into the pot.
- This is optional! In the first 7 days, place in warm place (under sunshine ) and uncover by day and half covered by night.
- Add oil to cover the doubanjiang (3-4 cm higher), cover the lid and place in warm place. Them we pass everything to time. Let it ferments for at least 3 months before enjoying.
Hi there,
thank you so much for sharing the beautiful recipe.
i just want to ask with regards to your mixed herbs, do you mix it at any particular ratio? how much of each herb do you use ? and are they whole or powder?
thank you kindly for your time and help.. and i hope to update you with pictures of my attempt
Hi Tal,
Usually we use whole spices in doubanjiang. There is no particular ratio for me. But you can replace them with Chinese five spice powder. But less amount around 2 tablespoons. I hope this helps and you can send me the photo via facebook.
Since the chili bean paste is always cooked thoroughly before use*, I wouldn’t worry too much about botulism — the spores themselves can survive boiling, but the toxin, assuming it’s even present, will be reliably broken down by a ten minute boil at 1000 ft elevation[1][2]. Cook the food containing it thoroughly, don’t taste the raw paste, and clean surfaces and containers just as you would with meat and it’s probably fine.
Given the incredible amount of salt in this stuff, it is also unlikely (but not impossible) for botulinum to grow in it[3]. Botulinum’s main trick is that it’s much more heat tolerant than other bacteria. It still doesn’t like high or low pHs, and it hates salt. I’m a pretty cautious person so I wouldn’t eat this raw just in case, and I’m leaving out the garlic for other reasons (I want to experiment with a simpler paste), nor would I give it it to infants even cooked (same reason as honey), but with the cooking I wouldn’t even worry.
The CDC recommendation is to discard any potentially contaminated food rather than undergoing a botulism boil, but this is presumably due to the fact that nearly all non-infant botulism cases are due to improperly home canned foods[3] (typically eaten without further cooking), or flavored oils (never cooked, as the garlic oil mentioned above).
If you want to be extra cautious, you could experiment with storing it without oil in aerobic conditions (i.e., let it breathe), and only adding the oil once you’re ready to keep it in the refrigerator. That might mess up the recipe though.
That said I’m an expert on neither medicine nor microbiology, so take this all with a grain of salt:-)
I did have a question too — do you know what fermenting agents are desired for making this paste? Given the large amount of salt I’d guess some variety of lactobacillus, but I’ve seen some sites suggest wild yeasts, and this is corroborated by the fact that stuff from outside Chengdu is never quite the same.
[1] http://scienceline.ucsb.edu/getkey.php?key=1307
[2] http://nchfp.uga.edu/how/general/for_safety_sake.html
[3] http://www.wildfermentationforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=3654
* in every recipe I’ve ever seen, the chili bean paste is fried for 30-60s, then other ingredients are added, and the whole delicious dish is braised for > 10 minutes.
kunming also makes a broad bean doubanjian paste
Thank you for this interesting recipe. I never realised before that Sichuan had a special Doubanjiang that was not made with soy beans.
Could it be that by “white wine” you are referring to the chinese baijiu which is a liquor with about 40-60% alcohol? That would rather be like vodka than european white wine if I am not mistaken. If you edit your recipe, it should become clearer to your western audience.
Thanks Sophie for the lovely suggestion.
I think the alcohol would prevent any bacteria from growing, but as soon as the oil is added, I would refrigerate it to prevent botulism forming.
Most of the alcohol will be volatilized under sun exposure.
Is this using dry or fresh broad beans?
Dry broad beans are used.
Elaine,
Are both sauces eaten the same way? I purchased the Pixan Doubangjiang bean paste. I want to make the red oil sauce. So basically all I do is add rapeseed or veggie oil to bean paste? If so, how much oil to bean paste.
Your recipe looks quite yummy and beautiful too.
Both sauces work the same. Usually we add rapeseed oil, just cover the paste to separate the paste from air.
Hi! Thanks for this recipe. I see in the comments you removed garlic due to chances of botulism creation/exposure. What was the quantity that you originally had in the recipe? Is it minced? I’m thinking of altering the recipe a bit and perhaps leave out the oil. I know it won’t be authentic but I’m just trying to experiment.
Thanks!
Hi Amanda,
We add minced garlic sometimes. If you want to leave out the oil, you need enough sun exposure just like real Pi’xian doubanjiang.